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Bibliography

Dress

General

Ashelford, Jane. A Visual History of Costume. The Sixteenth Century. London: Batsford, 1993.

Belfanti, Carlo Marco, and Fabio Giusberti. ‘Clothing and Social Inequality in Early Modern Europe: Introductory Remarks.’ Continuity and Change15, no. 3 (December 2000): 359–65.

Belfanti, Carlo Marco. ‘The Civilization of Fashion: At the Origins of a Western Social Institution.’ Journal of Social History43, no. 2 (2009): 261–83.

Belfanti, Carlo Marco. ‘Was fashion a European invention?’ Journal of Global History, vol. 3 (2008): 419–443.

Burghartz, Susanna. ‘Covered Women? Veiling in Early Modern Europe.’ History Workshop Journal80, no. 1 (October 1, 2015): 1–32.

Calvi, Giulia. ‘Cultures of Space: Costume Books, Maps, and Clothing between Europe and Japan (Sixteenth through Nineteenth Centuries).’ I Tatti Studies in the Italian Renaissance20, no. 2 (September 2017): 331–63.

Colomer, José Luis and Amalia Descalzo. Spanish Fashion at the Courts of Early Modern Europe. Madrid: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica, 2014.

Groebner, Valentin. ‘Inside Out: Clothes, Dissimulation, and the Arts of Accounting in the Autobiography of Matthäus Schwarz, 1496–1574.’ Representations, no. 66 (1999): 100–121.

Lechevallier-Chevignard, Edmond. European Costume of the Sixteenth through Eighteenth Centuries: In Full Color. New York: Dover Publications, 1995.

Lemire, Beverly, ed. The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society: Global Perspectives from Early Modern to Contemporary Times. Farnham, Surrey; Burlington: Ashgate Publishing, 2010.

Salman, Jeroen, Roeland Harms, and Joad Raymond, eds. Not Dead Things: The Dissemination of Popular Print in England and Wales, Italy, and the Low Countries, 1500­–1820, edited by Leiden: Brill, 2013.

Lister, Margot. Costumes of Everyday Life: An Illustrated History of Working Clothes from 900–1910. London: Barrie and Jenkins, 1972.

Morris, Robert, and Jane Huggett. Clothes of the Common Man, 1580–1660. Bristol: Stuart Press, 2000.

Patterson, Angus.Fashion and Armour in Renaissance Europe: Proud Lookes and Brave Attire. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 2009.

Payne, Christiana. ‘‘Murillo-like Rags or Clean Pinafores’: Artistic and Social Preferences in the Representation of the Dress of the Rural Poor.’ Textile History33, no. 1 (May 1, 2002): 48–62.

Roche, Daniel. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the ‘Ancien Regime’, transl. by J. Birrell. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press 1994.

Rodini, Elizabeth, Elissa B. Weaver, and Kristen Ina Grimes, eds. A Well-Fashioned Image: Clothing and Costume in European Art, 1500–1850. Chicago, Ill: David and Alfred Smart Museum of Art, 2002.

Rosenthal, Margaret F. ‘Cultures of Clothing in Later Medieval and Early Modern Europe.’ Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies39, no. 3 (2009): 459–81. https://doi.org/10.1215/10829636-2009-001.

Rublack, Ulinka. Dressing up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe. New York: Oxford University Press, 2010.

Semmelhack, Elizabeth. ‘Above the Rest: Chopines as Trans-Mediterranean Fashion.’ Journal of Spanish Cultural Studies14, no. 2 (2013): 120–42.

Sherrill, Tawny. ‘Fleas, Fur, and Fashion: Zibellini as Luxury Accessories of the Renaissance.’ In Medieval Clothing and Textiles2, edited by Robin Netherton and Gale R. Owen-Crocker, 121–50. Woodbridge: Boydell Press, 2006.

Stallybrass, Peter, and Ann Rosalind Jones. Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000.

Stallybrass, Peter, and Ann Rosalind Jones. ‘Fetishizing the Glove in Renaissance Europe.’ Critical Inquiry28, no. 1 (2001): 114–32.

Varese, Ranieri, and Grazietta Butazzi. Storia Della Moda. Bologna: Calderini, 1995.

Vincent, Susan J., and Elizabeth Currie, eds. A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion. Vol.3 In the Renaissance. London: Bloomsbury Academic, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 2017.

Welch, Evelyn S. Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500–1800. New York: Oxford University Press, 2017.

Scandinavia

Andersson, I. Eva. ‘Swedish Burghers’ Dress in the Seventeenth Century.’ Costume51, no. 2 (2017): 171-189.

Aneer, Cecilia. Skrädderi För Kungligt Bruk, Tillverkning Av Kläder Vid Det Svenska Hovet ca 1600–1635. Uppsala: Uppsala Universitet, 2009.

Dahl, Camilla Luise. ‘The Use of Terminology in Medieval Scandinavian Costume History:  An Approach to Source-Based Terminology Methodology’. In North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X. Havertown: Oxbow Books, 2009.

Dahl, Camilla Luise. ‘Klædt i Rigets – Stand, Status Og National Identitet Udtrykt i Borgerskabets Dragt i Reformationstidens’. Norsk folkemuseum, Oslo, 2015.

Dahl, Camilla Luise. ‘Dressing the Bourgeoisie: Clothing in Probate Records of Danish Townswomen, ca. 1545–1610’. In Medieval Clothing and Textiles12, edited by Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Robin Netherton, 131–93. Woodbridge: Boydell Press, 2016.

Engelhardt Mathiassen, Tove, Marie-Louise Nosch, Maj Ringgard, Kirsten Toftegaard, and Mikkel Vendborg Pedersen, eds. Fashionable Encounters Perspectives and Trends in Textile and Dress in the Early Modern Nordic World. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2014.

Lipkin, Sanna, Kuokkanen, Tiina. ‘Man buried in his everyday clothes – attire and social status in early modern Oulu’. Monographs of the Archaeological Society of Finland3: 2014, 40–53.

Pylkkänen, Riitta. Renessanssin Puku Suomessa, 1550–1620. Porvoo: Werner Söderström osakeyhtiö, 1956.

Pylkkänen, Riitta.Barokin pukumuoti Suomessa 1620–1720. Suomen muinaismuistoyhdistyksen aikakauskirja 71. Helsinki: Suomen muinaismuistoyhdistys, 1970.

Pylkkänen, Riitta. 1600-luvun kuolinpukuja Turun tuomiokirkkomuseossa. Turun kaupungin historiallinen museo: Turku 1955.

Rangström, Lena, ed. Modelejon: manligt mode, 1500-tal, 1600-tal, 1700-tal = Lions of fashion: male fashion of the 16th, 17th, 18th centuries. Stockholm: Livrustkammaren, 2002.

Italy

Allerston, Patricia. ‘Clothing and Early Modern Venetian Society.’ Continuity and Change, vol. 15, no. 3 (2000): 367–390.

Allerston, Patricia. ‘Wedding Finery in Sixteenth-Century Venice.’ In Marriage in Italy, 1300–1650, edited by Trevor Dean and K. J. P. Lowe, 25–40. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998.

Arnold, Janet. Moda Alla Corte Dei Medici  Gli Abiti Restaurati Di Cosimo, Eleonora e Don Garzia. Firenze: Centro Di, 1993.

Boldrini, Federica. ‘‘An Mulieribus Licitum Sit Se Ornare’: Female Appearance as an Emerging Object of Juridical Regulation between the Middle Ages and the Early Modern Times.’ In Conduct Literature for and about Women in Italy, 1470–1900: Prescribing and Describing Life, edited by Helena Sanson and Francesco Lucioli, 207–26. Women and Gender in Italy (1500­–1900); 1. Paris: Classiques Garnier, 2016.

Bonelli-Gandolfi, C. ‘Leggi suntuarie senesi dei secoli XV e4 XVI.’ La Diana, vol. 2 (1927): 287–291.

Bonelli-Gandolfi, C. ‘La legislazione suntuarie negli ultimi centocinquant’anni della Repubblica.’Studi senesi, vol. 10, no. 35 (1920): 243–275 and 334–398.

Bonito Fanelli, Rosalia. ‘The Textiles of Italian Renaissance Dress as Seen in Portraiture: A Semiological Interpretation.’ Bulletin de Liason Du Cieta74 (1997): 83–95.

Bourne, Molly. ‘The Turban’d Turk in Renaissance Mantua: Francesco II Gonzaga’s Interest in Ottoman Fashion.’ In Mantova e Il Rinascimento Italiano: Studi in Onore Di David S. Chambers, edited by Philippa Jackson and Guido Rebecchini, 53–64. Mantua: Sometti Editoriale, 2011.

Bridgeman, Jane. ‘Concedenti e Netti . . . Beauty, Dress and Gender in Italian Renaissance Art.’ In Concepts of Beauty in Renaissance Art, edited by Francis Ames-Lewis and Mary Rogers. Aldershot: Ashgate, 1998.

Bridgeman, J. ‘’Pagare le pompe’: Why Quattrocento Sumptuary Laws Did Not Work.’ In Women in Italian Renaissance Culture and Society, edited by Letizia Panizza, 209–226. Oxford: Legenda, 2000.

Bridgeman, Jane. ‘The Origins of Dress History and Cesare Vecellio’s ‘Pourtraits of Attire.’ Costume44, no. 1 (2010): 37–45.

Butazzi, Grazietta. ‘Tra mode occidentali e ‘costumi’ medio orientali: confronti e riflessioni dai repertori cinquecenteschi alle trasformazioni vestimentarie tra XVII e XVIII secolo.’ In Il vestito dell’altro: semiotica, arti, costume, edited by Giovanna Franci and Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli, 251–70. Milano: Lupetti, 2005.

Butazzi, Grazietta. ‘Repertori Di Costumi e Stampe Di Moda Tra i Secoli XVI XVIII.’ In Storia Della Moda, edited by Ranieri Varese and Grazietta Butazzi, 2–25. Bologna: Calderini, 1995.

Calaresu, Melissa. ‘Costumes and Customs in Print: Travel, Ethnography, and the Representation of Street-Sellers in Early Modern Italy.’ In Not Dead Things: The Dissemination of Popular Print in England and Wales, Italy, and the Low Countries, 1500­–1820, edited by Jeroen Salman, Roeland Harms, and Joad Raymond, 181–209. Leiden: Brill, 2013.

Calvi, Giulia. ‘Abito, Genere, Cittadinanza Nella Toscana Moderna (Secoli XVI-XVII).’ Quaderni Storici110 (2002): 477–503.

Campagnol, Isabella. ‘Veli rivelatori: le donne veneziane e il significato simbolico del velo.’ Velo e velatio, 2014, 55–71.

Cavagna, Anna Giulia, and Grazietta Butazzi, eds. Le Trame della moda. Biblioteca del Cinquecento / ‘Europa delle corti’, Centrostudi sulle società di antico regime; 61. Roma: Bulzoni, 1995.

Cerri, Monica, ‘Sarti toscani nel seicento: attività e clientele’ in Le Trame della Moda, edited by Anna Giulia Cavagna and Grazietta Butazzi, 421–435. Rome: Bulzoni, 1995.

Collier Frick, Carole. Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2006.

Currie, Elizabeth. ‘Clothing and a Florentine Style, 1550–1620.’ Renaissance Studies 23, no. 1 (February 1, 2009): 33–52.

Currie, Elizabeth. ‘Diversity and design in the Florentine tailoring trade, 1550–1620.’ In The Material Renaissance, edited by Michelle O’Malley and Evelyn S. Welch, 154–173. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2007.

Currie, Elizabeth. ‘Prescribing Fashion: Dress, Politics and Gender in Sixteenth-Century Italian Conduct Literature.’ Fashion Theory4, no. 2 (May 2000): 157–77.

Currie, Elizabeth. Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence. London; New York: Bloomsbury Academic, 2016.

Davanzo Poli, Doretta, Eugenio Manzato, Francesca Piovan, Gabriella Delfini, Giampaolo Cagnin, and Danilo Gasparini. Tessuti Antichi: Tessuti, Abbigliamento, Merletti, Ricami, Secoli XIV–XIX. Treviso: Edizioni Canova, 1994.

Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, & Fine Clothing. Baltimore; London: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2002.

Hohti, Paula. ‘Dress, Dissemination, and Innovation: Artisan Fashions in Sixteenth- and Early Seventeenth-Century Italy.’ In Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500–1800, edited by Evelyn S. Welch, 143–65. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2017.

Hughes, Diane Owen. ‘Distinguishing Signs: Ear-rings, Jews and Franciscan Rhetoric in the Italian Renaissance City.’ Past and Present, vol. 112 (1986) 3–60.

Hughes, Diane Owen. ‘Sumptuary Law and social Relations in Renaissance Italy.’ In Disputes and Settlements: Law and Human Relations in the Westedited by John Bossy, 69–99. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1983.

Jones, Ann Rosalind, and Peter Stallybrass. Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000.

Kovesi Killerby, C. ‘Practical problems in the enforcement of Italian sumptuary law, 1200–1500.’ In Crime and Disorder in Renaissance Italy, edited by Trevor Dean and K. J. P. Lowe, 99–120. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994.  

Kovesi Killerby, Catherine. Sumptuary Law in Italy, 1200–1500. Oxford Historical Monographs. Oxford: Clarendon Press 2002.  

Levi Pisetzky, Rosita. Il Costume e La Moda Nella Società Italiana. Torino: Einaudi, 1978.

Levi Pisetzky, Rosita. Storia Del Costume in Italia. Milano: Istituto editoriale italiano, 1964.

Liscia Bemporad, Dora. Il Costume Nell’età Del Rinascimento. Firenze: EDIFIR, 1988.

Lugarini, Renato. ‘Il ruolo degli statuti delli sforgi nel sistema suntuario senese.’ Bullettino Senese di Storia Patria, vol. 54 (1997): 403–422.

Meneghin, Alessia. ‘The livery of a Florentine employee in the fifteenth century: the rewards of a lifetime of service.’ History of Retailing and Consumption, vol. 1, no. 1 (2015): 47–62.

Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina. Guardaroba Medievale: Vesti e Società Dal 13. Al 16. Secolo. Bologna: Il Mulino, 1999.

Newett, Mary Margaret. ‘The Sumptuary Laws of Venice in the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries.’ In Historical Essays by Members of the Owens College, edited by Thomas Fredrick Tout and James Tait, 245–278. Manchester: Longmans, Green and Co. 1907.

Orlando, Flavio. Storia Del Costume Maschile Al Tempo Di Cosimo III de’ Medici, 1670–1723. Milano: IDEA 2000 progetti, 1991.

Orsi Landini, Roberta, and Bruna Niccoli. Moda a Firenze, 1540–1580: Lo Stile Di Eleonora Di Toledo e La Sua Influenza. Firenze: Pagliai Polistampa, 2005.

Orsi Landini, Roberta, and Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols. Moda a Firenze, 1540–1580: Lo Stile Di Cosimo I de’ Medici. Firenze: M. Pagliai, 2011.

Paulicelli, Eugenia. Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy: From Sprezzatura to Satire. Visual Culture in Early Modernity. Farnham; Burlington: Ashgate, 2014.

Pavanini, Paola. ‘Abitazioni Popolari e Borghesi Nella Venezia Cinquecentesca.’ Studi Veneziani5 (1981): 63–126.

Pinchera, Valeria. Lusso e Decoro: Vita Quotidiana e Spese Dei Salviati Di Firenze Nel Sei e Settecento. Pisa: Scuola normale superiore di Pisa, 1999.

Quondam, Amedeo. Tutti i Colori Del Nero: Moda e Cultura Del Gentiluomo Nel Rinascimento. Costabissara (Vicenza): Angelo Colla, 2007.

Randolph, Adrian W. B. ’Performing the Bridal Body in Fifteenth-Century Florence’, Art History, 21 (1998): 182–201.

Ronald, Rainey. ‘Dressing down the Dressed-up: Reproving Feminine Attire in Renaissance Florence.’ In Renaissance Society and Culture: Essays in Honor of Eugene F. Rice, Jr., edited by John Monfasani and Ronald G. Musto, 217–37. New York: Italica Press, 1991.

Rosenthal, Margaret F. ‘Clothing, Fashion, Dress, and Costume in Venice (c. 1450–1650).’ In A Companion to Venetian History, 1400–1797, edited by Eric R. Dursteler, 889–928. Leiden: Brill, 2014.

Silvestrini, Elisabetta. ‘L’abito Popolare in Italia.’ La Ricerca Folklorica, no. 14 (1986): 5–44.

Warr, Cordelia. ‘Clothing, Charity, Salvation and Visionary Experience in Fifteenth-Century Siena’, Art History, vol. 27, no. 2 (2004), 1187–209.

England

Backhouse, Clare.Fashion and Popular Print in Early Modern England: Depicting Dress in Black-Letter Ballads. London New York: I.B. Tauris, 2017.

Hayward, Maria. ‘Crimson, Scarlet, Murrey and Carnation Red at the Court of Henry VIII’. Textile History38, no. 2 (2007): 135–50.

Hentschell, R. ‘Moralizing Apparel in Early Modern London: Popular Literature, Sermons, and Sartorial Display.’ Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies39, no. 3 (October 1, 2009): 571–95.

Korhonen, Anu. ‘To See and To Be Seen: Beauty in the Early Modern London Street.’ Journal of Early Modern History12, no. 3/4 (August 2008): 335–60.

Kuchta, David. The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2002.

Spufford, Margaret. The Great Reclothing of Rural England: Petty Chapmen and Their Wares in the Seventeenth Century. London: Hambledon Press, 1984.

Styles, John 2008. The Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in Eighteenth-Century England. New Haven, Yale University Press.

Tankard, Danae. ‘‘I Think Myself Honestly Decked’: Attitudes to the Clothing of the Rural Poor in Seventeenth-Century England.’ Rural History26, no. 1 (April 2015): 17–33.